Our trip to the north didn’t just end with us road-tripping from Salta to Cafayate and back. Since there was so much more nature, so many more roads and places for us to discover further north, we took the 2h-bus from Salta to Jujuy and continued our adventure to Tilcara. This marvellous little village lies about 1,5h from San Salvador de Jujuy, where we once again rented a car to reach our next destinations. However, finding a car this time didn’t turn out as easy as it had the first time.
Contrary to our expectations from Salta, there were only a couple of car rentals in Jujuy, of which most were closed on the day of our planned departure to Tilcara. Ultimately, we chose for Sudamerics, as it was the only one available and prices were within our budget: €280 for 4 days (€234 car rental + €46 gas). Some word of advise seems adequate at this point: make sure to check ahead of time which agencies are open and have cars available, in order to avoid an odyssey, like we had to suffer.
After our backpacks were safely stored in the trunk, plenty of water was packed – for the not so unrealistic case of a breakdown of our little Chevy, which, luckily, we didn’t have to experience after all -, and the music was set on our favourite Argentinian-Reggeaton-road-trip-playlist, we were finally ready to leave Jujuy and hit the road again. Concrete roads and being the only ones out there, made the 1,5h driving to Tilcara fly by, and we could quickly settle into our home for the next 3 nights. We immediately fell in love with this place, that already after five minutes seemed so much cuter and more relaxed than Jujuy, which really didn’t have a lot to offer. Using Tilcara as our base, the following days, we explored the region around it on a day-trip-basis, and really enjoyed all the variety and beauty that nature up there had in store for us.
For all those who are also planning to discover this beautiful part of the country, I would highly recommend going with a small group and renting a car. Going by yourself is probably also possible, but will be more expensive and more touristy, as you’ll be dependent on the offered bus tours that take you to all the attractions and sights. Having your own car will add a lot of flexibility and freedom to your trip, and doing everything at your own pace sure does have its perks.
(1) Salinas Grandes (Purmamarca)
The endless winding roads – starting in Purmamarca – that need to be conquered in order to cross the mountains and reach the salt flats, make the 1,5h-hour ride seem a lot longer than just that. However, finally getting to this incredible piece of nature, will make up for all the inconveniences of the ride. Even though the Salinas Grandes of Argentina might not be able to fully keep up with the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, amazing pictures and fun photo shoots are guaranteed. A big plus in comparison to its Bolivian counterpart: the salt desert can easily be reached by car and there’s no need to book a tour. Make sure to bring plenty of water and snacks though. While salty souvenirs and the good ole llama-keychain can be purchased at large, there are barely any opportunities to buy food or drinks out there, unless you want to spend a fortune at the restaurant a little further down the road.
(2) Cerro de los 7 Colores (Purmamarca)
The hill lies in the centre of the town Purmamarca, only 30 minutes by car from Tilcara. Parking your car in one of the side streets, you’ll walk across the little main square, past countless stands with colourful scarves, souvenirs and little llama-keychains. The view point is reached within minutes, and after paying a small entrance fee, you can get in line for fighting for the best photo spot and selfie position with the colourful mountain in the background. Since the viewpoint lies only 5 minutes from the centre, it is very crowded, and in my opinion, this makes the whole thing too touristy to actually enjoy what nature is presenting us here. Since this attraction lies on your way to the salt desert, you might as well make a quick stop for it, just don’t expect too much.
(3) Serranía de Hornocal (Cerro de los 14 colores, Humahuaca)
The “Cerro de los 7 Colores” is alright, but 14 colours is the real deal. And this time, the mountain really seems to be the big brother of Rainbow Mountain in Peru. Although the Hornocal lies a bit further away (about 1h from Humahuaca), it’s much bigger and in my opinion, a lot more beautiful. Since it lies in the middle of nature, it is a lot less crowded than the smaller one in the centre of Purmamarca. Make sure to come here in the morning hours to get the best view and most beautiful pictures, before the clouds cast their shadows over the bright colours of the mountain.
(4) Cerro de la Cruz (Tilcara)
Everybody always talks about the “Pucará Fortress” in Tilcara, but if you ask me, the Cerro de la Cruz is much more worth it. 5 minutes from the centre lies the iron bridge, after which you’ll turn left immediately. The start of the trail up the hill lies in between two rocks and is partly covered by some plants, so don’t be deceived and start your treasury hunt for the hidden pathway. It is highly recommendable to hike up the hill around 6:30pm, to watch the sunset on top – the panoramic view is absolutely gorgeous! Although the trail is pretty steep, getting to the cross on top shouldn’t take you longer than 20 minutes. And from up there, the Pucará Fortress looks like a little toy house.
(5) Garganta del Diablo (Tilcara)
There are two ways of getting to the Garganta del Diablo in Tilcara and its little waterfall: hiking 7km uphill, or taking the car and only hiking the last 20 minutes from the entrance to the waterfall. We opted for the scenic ride, which took us about 25 minutes, and already provided us with some pretty amazing panoramas of the valley and its surrounding mountains. At the little parking lot, you have to pay a small entrance fee, after which you can start hiking to the waterfall. The “hike” stays pretty much on the same level and is not hard at all. Just make sure not to wear flip flops, as the ground consists of pebbles and rocks the entire way, and not wearing proper footwear makes slipping and tripping fairly easy. The waterfall itself might seem a little overrated, but it’s cute to take some pictures, and since getting there doesn’t take all that many efforts, you should simply stop by.
The unofficial (6) The Village of Tilcara
While there are so many tourist attractions in the surroundings of Tilcara, the village itself shouldn’t be neglected. Humahuaca, Purmamarca, salt flats, and colourful mountains take up the first places in all the rankings of what to do north of Jujuy, but the cuttle little town has a lot of charm, great restaurants, and a very relaxing vibe to offer as well. A very recommendable hostel at which we stayed is the Tilcara Hostel for €7 a night (if you book the following nights in person and not via HostelWorld or Booking.com, you even only pay €6). The staff and other guests made us feel as if we were all part of a big family, and the atmosphere at this hostel was simply great. Making pizza together, sitting in the patio and singing songs at night, just chit-chatting for breakfast – this place really makes you feel at home from the minute you set foot in it. Speaking of breakfast: this hostel must’ve also offered the best breakfast I have ever had at an accommodation like this – so, don’t miss out on the fruit platters and dulce de leche baguettes!
You will also find a lot of street food in this little town. My personal recommendation: the Tortillitas, filled with a caprese-mix, served from the grill at the corner of the main road. Also very delicious is a Pan Relleno, filled with tomato and cheese. And all these delicacies will only cost you around €2.
If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at night, after a long day of exploring and discovering, two of my recommendations would be Kusikanki and Khuska Resto Bar. Kusikanki offers a variety of Quinoa-inspired dishes and has a really nice atmosphere. Unfortunately, we never made it to Khuska Resto Bar, but several locals, as well as friends from BA who had been to the north before, recommended me this place, and looking at pictures from TripAdvisor still makes me sad we didn’t go.
lenacatherine 