In Patagonia, nature sure is presenting itself from its most beautiful and stunning side. Where snow-covered mountain tops stick out from behind endless grasslands, where winding rivers cut through marvellous rock formations, and where the air is so fresh and cold from the snow, while the mild summer breeze warms up your sunlit face. And all you can think is “Gosh, this is so beautiful, I don’t ever want to leave”. And so you stay – enjoying the Patagonian hospitality, daily hikes to lagoons, waterfalls and on top of hills, grilled lamb for dinner, breathtaking views and an occasional whiskey on a glacier.
If any of those points arouse your interest, the south of Argentina might just be the next travel destination for you. Whether you’re an advanced mountain climber, a weekend-hobby-hiker, or simply an ambitious photo-taker with the will to persevere, the countless trails and tours in El Calafate and El Chaltén offer something for just about everyone.
EL CALAFATE
As we had heard that El Chaltén offers a lot more hiking options, we decided to stay two nights in El Calafate, which left us with only one day to do the Perito Moreno MiniTrekking Tour. We were picked up at 7:30am by the shuttle bus and made our way to the national park, where we had to pay the entrance fee in cash (regular: $500 [11,70€], students $50 pesos [1,20€]). After a one-hour stop at a panoramic view point, we finally arrived to the port, from which we took a 15-minute boat to the base camp of the glacier. Spurs underneath our feet, a fun guide leading our group, and we were ready to go on one of the most unforgettable hikes of our lives. If you ever get the chance, don’t miss out on this unique experience!
EL CHALTÉNThe little village – three hours from El Calafate and the airport – with the size of my hometown in Germany (1.600 inhabitants), most definitely doesn’t offer the greatest wifi or the most versatile nightlife you’ve ever seen. But it sure has some amazing trails and views in store for its visitors. Our first day of hiking, the sky must’ve been as clear as it could’ve been, and the Fitz Roy mountain overlooked the calm, still sleepy village, with its snow-covered top silhouetted against the bright blue sky. We decided for three different routes for the three days that we would be around, and ended up hiking 20-25km every day. Starting our hikes around 10am, enjoying the fresh air and the exercise of walking for hours, working on our tan with the strong sun shine, returning around 6pm, and treating ourselves to some delicious new flavours at Cúrcuma, made for a perfect combination that left us happy, relaxed and refuelled with energy for the busy Christmas days ahead of us.
MY TIPS & RECOMMENDATIONSMost places in El Chaltén and El Calafate demand cash payments or charge you extra for paying by credit card – take enough pesos in cash with you, to avoid high fees at ATMs, or bad exchange rates when exchanging your currency for Argentinian pesos.
- Hostel Los Viajeros in El Chaltén – Roberta, the owner, is such a cute lady and will help you with any problems or questions you might have.
- Cúrcuma Restaurant in El Chaltén – fresh and homemade dishes with unexpected amazing flavours, cooked by two lovely ladies who didn’t hesitate a second to add “Cúrcuma Latte” to their menu after we told them about the trend drink that is becoming quite popular in Germany right now. You should also get the cocoa truffles as a snack for one of your next hikes!
- Hielo & Aventura Tours: MiniTrekking on the Perito Moreno Glacier – The tour lasts all day and costs €180, incl. the shuttle from your accommodation to the starting point of the tour, which accounts for €45 of the price. I would recommend taking this shuttle, as a taxi costs almost €100 each way for the 1:30h ride. All in all, the tour is highly recommendable: fun guides, amazing views and picture opportunities, a little surprise at the end, and walking on the glacier is an experience you won’t forget any time soon.
- If you’re an exchange student at an Argentinian university and you plan on visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier, make sure to bring your Student ID – you’ll only pay $50 [1,20€] pesos instead of $500 [11,70€] for entering the national park.
- From the airport in El Calafate it’s a three hour drive to El Chaltén. The company Las Lengas is the only one offering the transfer, and they charge €35 and €22 going to and returning from El Chaltén, to be paid in cash.