Albania has recently been hyped a lot on social media and among travellers, and for good reason as we’ve discovered. From stunning mountain ranges to breathtaking canyons – the country truly offers a diverse range of experiences. After traveling by bus from Dubrovnik, Croatia to Tirana, we rented a car and embarked on a road trip to explore this beautiful country from north to south. Here’s our 2-week itinerary.

TIRANA (1 day)

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A good starting point for our Albania trip (having come from Dubrovnik, Croatia), Tirana also proved to be ideal for renting and eventually returning a car for our 2-week road trip. Apart from that, the city isn’t extraordinarily special, and you won’t need more than a day or two to explore it. One attraction that is worth visiting though, is the BUNK’ART museums. These museums narrate the story of Albania during its dictatorship years since 1944 and showcase some of the >170,000 bunkers constructed by its paranoid leader during that time.

• While buses and private shuttles can also be arranged for getting around the country, I would strongly recommend renting a car or using your own vehicle. The flexibility and time saved will definitely make it worthwhile.
• We rented our car at Albarent in Tirana and paid €1.000 for a Fiat Tipo for 14 days, gas for the entire trip was another €180.
• BUNK’ART tickets are €4 per person and can be purchased on the spot.
• Restaurant recommendation for Durrës where we returned our car on the last day before catching the ferry to Bari, Italy: Epidamn Restaurant & Garden.
• The ferry to Bari with a private cabin cost around €100 per person and takes 9 hours (departure at 11pm, arrival at 8am).

THETH (3 days)

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From Tirana we made our way up north to Skhodër from which it was another 2-hour drive to Theth. The initial hour treated us to breathtaking scenery, while the last 45-60 minutes were filled with sharp turns and narrow serpentines. So we felt quite relieved upon arrival at our guesthouse Logu i Harushave, nestled in the little village of Theth (make sure to reserve 1-2 weeks in advance in order to get one of the cute newly built triangle houses of the property). On our first full day, we decided to hike to the famous Blue Eye. After a 20-minute drive south of Theth, we reached a provisional parking area, marking the beginning of a 45-minute hike to our destination (Note: the signage for Blue Eye isn’t the most prominent, but if you don’t spot many other cars or the restaurant yet, keep driving). While the mostly up-hill hike is fairly easy, this does not imply that you’re not going to break a sweat. It doesn’t require any climbing though and we passed several people who were walking in Birkenstock sandals. Upon reaching the water basin, you can swim, buy a cool drink or simply unwind amidst the vibrant colours of the water and the surrounding nature. Despite its beauty, the waterfall cascading into a turquoise pool, embraced by the mountains of the Albanian Alps, has deceivingly freezing water. I could only stand to put my feet in up until my ankles for about 30 seconds – others were more daring, fully immersing themselves into the icy water.

After a brief rest back at our guesthouse, we set out for the next destination on our itinerary: The Theth Waterfall. A 20-minute stroll led us through a section of the village and alongside the river. En route, we paused for lunch at a little restaurant. It should’ve been just another 20 minutes to reach the waterfall, but a couple of detours and roadblocks featuring (harmlessly friendly) cows conspired to slightly postpone our arrival. Yet, the rainbow shimmering on the waterfall’s cascade remained just as marvellous when we finally reached it.

Our second full day in Theth began early: at 7 am, we departed from our guesthouse heading towards Valbonë. Equipped with trainers, athletic wear and a backpack stocked with snacks (ask your accommodation for a packed lunch instead of the usually included breakfast), two big water bottles and sunscreen we embarked on the trail. Which, in hindsight, would reveal itself as three hours of non-stop uphill hiking. Since we had our rental car parked in Theth, we chose not to undertake the complete hike to Valbonë. Instead, we opted for hiking to the peak and back down. After 2 hours of hiking, we took our first proper break at a quaint restaurant nestled in a beautiful forest clearing. The chilled drinks recharged our batteries for the last hour of steep hiking trails and gravel paths. Upon reaching the summit, we were greeted by a stunning panoramic view of the valley, justifying the sweat and breathlessness we had endured the past 3 hours After enjoying our packed lunch, a little photo session and the breeze that was blowing on the mountain top to cool us down, it took us around 2,5 hours to get back to the village of Theth. Even though we had an early start, and 5.5 hours might not seem overly long, the continuous steepness of the trail and the heat had both left their marks on our bodies, when we collapsed onto our beds around 4pm. A rejuvenating shower and the pizza from Pizzeri Jezerca (the only place in town offering a menu beyond the standard four items of meat, salad, grilled veggies, and cheese) was just what we needed after this eventful day. Needless te say, we had an early night.

KOMANI LAKE (1-2 days)

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When we entered ‘Koman’ into our GPS, we couldn’t believe that a 55km ride would take us 1 hour and 45 minutes. The realization that only the initial 45 minutes consisted of an actual road, while the remainder resembled a cratered moon landscape, explained the exceptionally long trip duration. Following this adventurous journey, we arrived at Villa Franceze, a guesthouse boasting a beautiful lakefront, managed by international travellers who had made this place their temporary home for various durations. The place radiated such a tranquility and peacefulness that we immediately understood why those backpackers got stuck here.

To witness the beautiful landscape of the lake, we decided to book a return ferry ticket, which would allow us to take the car back from Koman to Shkodër after enjoying the lake during the day. The ferry left at 9am from the port to which our guesthouse host drove us, and 3 hours later we arrived in Fierza, a ‘town’ which really only consisted of one shabby snack bar, surrounded by numerous buses and shuttles awaiting passengers destined for Valbonë. While the views were incredible and we were amazed by the vibrant shades of blue and turquoise of the lake, the journey back was essentially a reverse of the earlier trip – just hotter, sweatier and less novel after the 100 pictures I had taken from every conceivable angle on the way there. So unless you are taking your car to the other side to continue your trip to Valbonë, I would recommend considering a day tour with one of the smaller boats, some of which also offer kayaking and other fun excursions.

SKHODËR (1-2 days)

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Skhodër boasts a charming city center and some lovely restaurants. But more importantly, it is the gateway to the Albanian Albs in the north, as well as Komani Lake. Therefore, it’s a convenient overnight stop after returning from any northern destinations via winding roads, and before journeying further down south.

• Stolia Coffeehouse is a lovely spot for a brunch or an afternoon coffee with several vegan options on the menu.
• The service at Aroma was so exceptional and the food so delicious that we returned two nights in a row for dinner. And who wouldn’t, if a 3 course meal incl. wine and cocktails sums up to €65.
• Our Airbnb could’ve not only hosted another couple, but even an entire dinner party – 100% recommend.

ALBANIAN RIVIERA – VLORË/KSAMIL/HIMARË (1-2 days)

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After thoroughly enjoying the northern part of the country, our experience of the coast, also known as the Albanian Riviera, was somewhat underwhelming. This sentiment might be subjective and it probably also depends on the kind of traveller you are and the kind of vacation you enjoy. But the busy beaches, €20 sun beds and overpriced beach club bars were not necessarily our vibe. Neither Vlorë (slightly smaller, our first stop on the southern route), nor Ksamil (a very Instagrammable town in the far south near the Greek island of Corfu) really hit the spot for us. Perhaps visiting during the off-season, when the crowds are thinner and the daytime temperatures are not scorching at 45 degrees, might have enriched our experience. Conversations with other travellers also led us to consider Himarë as a smaller town with a more laid-back atmosphere for a future visit. Despite this, we still enjoyed the crystal clear water of the beaches, beautiful sunset dinners by the sea and appreciated our stay at the newly constructed Poseidon Hotel 2.

• If you’re looking for a beach outside of town, Pulëbardha Beach is located 10 minutes by car from Ksamil. It was still quite crowded and we paid €20 for two sun beds and an umbrella, but with only two restaurants adjacent to it, the beach did provide a somewhat more secluded atmosphere compared to the tightly packed beach clubs in the town center.
• Despite the scorching 45-degree heat, exploring the ruins of the Butrint National Archeological Park was a highlight. The exceptionally well-preserved site has earned the status of UNESCO world heritage. Wondering through the remains of the ancient city and castle, there’s a wealth of history to absorb, spanning from the Greeks and Romans to the Middle Ages. Entrance fee was €10 per person – it’s advisable to arrive early, as the parking lot fills up quickly and alternative parking options are scarce.

GJIROKASTËR (2 days)

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Happy to have left the coastline and returned to a more mountainous region, we spent two beautiful days in Gjirokastër. The charming city center, with its narrow streets and quaint shops, is an ideal setting for afternoon strolls and picking up souvenirs to take home. There are also countless great restaurants (for the first time also offering a range of vegan options). It’s a place to simply enjoy walking around, exploring the castle and relishing nice dinners and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere.

• Mapo Restaurant, Edua, Snack Bar Simple are all restaurants we can recommend.
• Don’t miss out on a tour of the castle. There are almost no restricted areas, you can actually climb onto the roof and we found all the information provided super interesting.
• Staying at Palorto Traditional Hotel was another highlight of our time in Gjirokastër. The freshly renovated hotel is situated on a hill, but not too far from the center. The rooms are beautifully done, the owner extremely friendly, and the complimentary breakfast, prepared by the owner’s mother and served in the charming courtyard, is a perfect way to start the day.

OSUM CANYON (1 day)

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It felt quite magical swimming through the pleasantly tempered turquoise waters of the Osum Canyon. As we left Gjirokastër in no hurry and first checked in to our guesthouse Bracaj, we only arrived at the entrance of the canyon in the late afternoon just as the sun was beginning to set. This timing actually turned out to be advantageous, as many people were already leaving the water when we arrived, leaving the river nestled between the soaring rock walls all to ourselves. After this relaxing swim, we returned to our accommodation for dinner with a view over the gorge. The next morning, after breakfast, we continued our journey to Berat.

• Arriving from Gjirokastër, the optimal route to reach the canyon is still through Berat, as the “quicker” road displayed on Google Maps is only accessible by a 4×4 vehicle.

BERAT (1day)

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Much like Gjirokastër, Berat is perched on a hill with parts of the city centre nestled within the castle walls. Since it marked our final night in Albania, we indulged ourselves with a stay at a 5-star hotel slightly outside the historic center, costing €70 per night. While we enjoyed the luxurious ambience of the room and the hotel overall, the “gym” and spa area we had been looking forward to turned out to be a bit of a letdown. Hotel Klea on the other hand, the place we had chosen for our last Albanian dinner, exceeded our expectations. The restaurant offered the ideal setting, with a romantic terrace and courtyard, delicious food and exceptional service. What a way to conclude two unforgettable weeks of road tripping through a diverse, welcoming and above all beautiful country like Albania.

• We also enjoyed some delicious (vegan) lunch consisting of filled eggplant and a hearty thick vegetable stew at Temi Albanian Food.

OUR TRAVEL ROUTE

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