VALLADOLID & EK BALAM MAYAN RUINS

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Valladolid, the colourful colonial town, can be reached in just under two hours from Cancún airport, making it the ideal starting point for anyone eager to explore the central and western corners of the Yucatán Peninsula. Alternatively, you could begin your journey on Holbox—the car-free island in the north—which is also highly recommended. In either case, I suggest collecting your rental car at the airport and heading out of the Cancún area without further delay. While some travellers, particularly from the U.S., may enjoy Cancún’s hotel zone with its upscale restaurants, nightclubs, and resort atmosphere, it’s not a destination that appeals to everyone. Prices are more often listed in U.S. dollars than Mexican pesos and inflated to match the area’s show and extravaganza (which you will be offered anywhere you go, whether you like it or not). To me, the city feels far removed from the character and authenticity found elsewhere on the peninsular and so we headed away from the coast, towards the “real” Yukatán we were looking for.

Once you’ve left the Cancún buzz behind, Valladolid will charm you with its cozy vibe. Cobblestoned streets and colourful one-storey houses invite you for endless strolls along little shops, markets and boutiques. Our favourite street – during the day as well as the night – was the Calzada de los Frailes. Starting near the main square, it winds its way to the Convent San Bernardino where you can watch a free light show every night (except Mondays) at 9pm (Spanish) and 9:25pm (English). On your stroll, stop for some ice cream, hop into the perfumería or shop for jewelry in one of the many boutiques – la Calzada’s got it all. And don’t miss Parque Sisal at the end of the street, where you’ll find Valladolid’s iconic name letters – a perfect (cheesy or charming, depending on your mood) photo op.

While Valladolid is often used as the starting point for getting to Chichén Itzá – the most famous Mayan city – I’d personally recommend opting for the lesser-known Ek Balam Maya ruins instead. Here’s why:

• Fewer crowds, more atmosphere: Ek Balam is significantly smaller and far less crowded than its more touristic counterpart. We spent about 2.5 hours exploring the site at a relaxed pace, with plenty of time to take it all in.
• More accessible and affordable: The entrance fee is 631 MXN (around €29), slightly lower than Chichén Itzá. We also hired a local guide for €36 (for a group of three) who walked us through the site for two hours—an experience I’d highly recommend.
• You can still climb the ruins: One of Ek Balam’s highlights is the Acropolis, which you’re allowed to climb. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the surrounding jungle—a privilege no longer offered at Chichén Itzá, where climbing the Pyramid of Kukulkán has been prohibited since 2008.
• Easy to reach: Ek Balam is just a 30-minute drive from Valladolid, making it a perfect half-day trip.

MÉRIDA

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Did you know that Mérida is the safest city of Latin America and was even ranked 2nd safest city of all of North America, only surpassed by Quebec City in Canada? While it might sound surprising on paper, it only makes sense once you’re there, roaming the streets and taking in the vibrant atmosphere of the city with just under a million inhabitants. Being the capital of the state of Yukatán and the largest city of the peninsula, it offered the greatest variety of plant-based restaurants of all the places we visited. You would think that finding vegan food options in a meat-focused country such as Mexico would be a challenge. But Mérida and Valladolid proved that to be wrong. Every single cafe or restaurant that I found on Google Maps was a true gem and not a single dish disappointed us. Quite the opposite: we were amazed by the culinary diversity of the little plant-based oases we found, that all interpreted the traditional Mexican cuisine in a plant-based way.

While I wouldn’t recommend the Cenote Oxman in Valladolid due to its size and swimming pool atmosphere (the rope that people queue up for to jump into the water can be fun but also creates quite a loud and hectic vibe), the Cenote Yaal Utzil outside of Mérida was exactly what we had been looking for. Less than an hour from the center, it is located in a little village, its parking lot not more than a sandy open space in front of a guy’s little house who ushered us into our spot for a couple of pesos. We were swimming with mostly locals and since the Cenote was fairly small, it was the perfect spot to just float around in the water on yet another 35 degrees Celsius day.

I like going on a free walking tour whenever I visit a new city. And the tour of Mérida with our lovely guide Angel is definitely a recommendation for anyone looking to explore the city and finding out where “las confidentes”, the white double-sided love chairs that are a feature of many public spaces in Yukatán originated from.

CAMPECHE + CELESTÚN FLAMINGO LAGOONS

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After a bit of back-and-forth about whether we should make the trip from Mérida down to Campeche, I’m so glad we said yes to this little detour. The charmingly quiet coastal city of Campeche is located about 2 hours and 15 minutes south of Mérida, nestled along the western coastline. Its lack of major attractions is, ironically, its greatest asset — inviting you to slow down and soak in the colonial charm, indulge in some good food, and sip a glass of wine after a day of doing nothing more than strolling its peaceful streets.

We hopped on the Tranvia, a little sightseeing tram that took us on a 1,5-hour loop around town, showcasing some pastel churches, cute neighbourhoods and the breezy coastal boulevard. One of the only attractions you may find online is the Fuentes Marinas Poesía del Mar, a nighttime (8pm) water-and-light fountain show. While I wouldn’t necessarily call this a must-see, it’s a great opportunity and excuse to try a Marquesita: the beloved Yucatecan street treat made from a thin, crispy rolled crepe filled with melty shredded cheese + Nutella (still waiting for the vegan version to be released).

We squeezed in a half-day trip to Celestún from Mérida, though you could also loop this into your route when heading south to Campeche. The 2-hour boat tour kicked off with a visit to one of the flamingos’ shallow feeding spots. We were lucky to still see so many flamingos, as May is usually the time when they make their way up north to Río Lagartos. Fun fact: Did you know that flamingos are born grey and that their colour only changes over time based on how much beta-carotene-rich algae they consume? Next, our boat glided into the impressive mangrove tunnels where thick, tangled root systems formed archways right above the water. The dark brown termite hives were clinging to the branches and trunks of the trees like huge ornaments. It truly felt like floating through a mystical world.

IZAMAL

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Izamal is one of Mexico’s officially designated Pueblos Mágicos (Magical Towns) and feels like it was dipped head-to-toe in sunshine. Its streets and buildings radiating a golden-yellow glow. Our one-night stopover on the way back to Cancún was just the right amount of time to wander the quiet streets, take in the mellow energy, and admire the beautiful Convento de San Antonio. That being said, I wouldn’t mind returning for a yoga retreat at our lush little hideaway, the Macan Che Gardenhotel.

MY TIPS & RECOMMENDATIONS

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• Hotel Nojoch Nah in Valladolid offered great price for value for €15 pp per night in modern rooms and with a little outdoor pool.
• LUNA PACH in Valladolid was our favourite restaurant of the entire trip. We loved every single one of the freshly home-made dishes coming from the tiny kitchen of the two best friends who are operating the cozy restaurant together. The Chaya juice was to die for!
• Nena Nena – another vegan friendly restaurant in Valladolid with lovely hosts + a little shot game you get for the table to sweeten up your wait time for the food.
• CANTO ENCANTO – cute coffee spot with plant based lunch options in Valladolid.
• Hacienda Xcanatun – if you’re looking for a fairytale wedding location or simply a 5-star accommodation matching modernity with a restored 18th century henequen (sisal) hacienda to treat yourself to, the Hacienda Xcanatun in Mérida (belonging to the Accor hotel group) is for you.
• Orgánico Bar de Café & Cocina – vegetarian restaurant with wonderful courtyard + an abundance of plant based options in Mérida.
• Taqueria La Lupita – close to no vegetarian / vegan options but a local recommendation for authentic tacos right at the parque de Santiago in Mérida.
• JAJAJANA – our favourite cafe + lunch spot in Mérida where I had the best plant-based chorizo tacos + carrot cake.
• El Apapacho – restaurant in Mérida with tables in a cutely lit courtyard garden with a variety of vegetarian + vegan options.
• The Cenote Yaal Utzil lies about an hour outside of Mérida and is a true hidden gem. While Cenotes in the center or closer to the big cities can get overcrowded with people during peak hours, this Cenote was visited by mostly locals when we were there and had a wonderfully calm vibe.
• We stayed at Casa Aguazul in Campeche, a hostel style accommodation with private room, self-check-in via key lock box, shared kitchen + pool. For €18 per night per person, a quiet and recommendable spot.
• Aduana 59 in Campeche catered to all our plant-based wishes and the waiter even gave us a little history lesson on the development of the city.
• Chocol Ha in Campeche is the right spot for you if you’re a chocolate lover or just want to bring home some sweet authentic chocolate treats from Mexico. Tip: the chocolate here was considerably cheaper than the one sold in Mérida. Make sure to try the tamal de chocolate!
• We scouted Punto Verde for our extensive brunch in Campeche with all plant-based pasta salad, grilled veggie sandwich, waffle, smoothies + iced coffee.
• At the Plaza de la Independencia in Campeche, the Tranvia Campeche departs, a little sightseeing tram that takes you on a 1,5-hour tour around the UNESCO-listed historic center.
• Macan Che Gardenhotel, our accommodation in Izamal, was a full experience in itself. The individual bungalows are located in a lush, tropical garden setting and some of the staff even living on site really fosters the community vibe of the place. I would love to return for a yoga retreat to fully disconnect from the outside world in this little hidden paradise.