Coming from beach and surf days, the sudden cold had us layering up in everything we’d packed. At one point, I genuinely wondered how long it takes for frostbite to kick in when you can no longer feel your toes. But let’s start at the beginning…

DAY 1: FROM IMLIL TO THE BASECAMP (3,200M)

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We left Marrakesh early and arrived in Imlil about two hours later, the starting point of our hike. Our gear was quickly assembled, the food loaded onto the mule and after one last tea with our guide, we were off. The first stretch was rather gentle, giving us time to chat with our guide and hear the stories of his countless climbs. Along the way, small huts were offering drinks, snacks or even proper meals. We stopped for water a couple of times, but our guide seemed to have a different lunch spot in mind for us. After 4 hours (incl. breaks), we reached the last hut before the basecamp where we sank down onto the plastic chairs with the sun on our faces, happy to finally give our exhausted legs a rest. We were presented with an opulent lunch that neither of us had expected: a big pasta salad with vegetables, bread and a Moroccan spiced omelette. It might’ve been the mountain air, but that omelette was the best I’ve ever tasted.

Re-energized, we tackled the final hour to the refuge, now well above the snow line. Thankful for our hiking sticks and grip, we followed the icy path, occasionally joined by a mysterious ginger cat .How she got up there, will forever remain a mystery.

We reached the refuge at around 4:30pm, after a total of 6 hours of hiking, incl. our 1-hour lunch and several smaller breaks in between. While the climb had warmed us up (we hiked part of the way in long sleeves), the temperature dropped quickly once the sun disappeared. The crackling fire place of the refuge had everyone gathering around. Little groups of hikers that didn’t know each other before formed, stories were exchanged, and the atmosphere was charged with pride of having made it this far.

After yet another delicious dinner with soup, tajine, tea and pomegranate, exhaustion won and we were tucked into our double bunk bed in a 16-people dorm by 9pm. Tip for the refuge: aim for a dorm on the 1st floor (the ground level rooms are much colder) and bring a sleeping bag lining. Even though the beds and blankets provided seemed surprisingly clean, you may guess how often they get a proper wash up there.

DAY 2: SUMMIT (4,167M) AT SUNRISE & DESCENT TO IMLIL

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After more rest than anticipated, the alarm went off at 4:30am and an unexpectedly lavish breakfast was waiting for us in the common room. Nobody particularly feels like eating at this time of the day, but we knew we’d need the energy and 2 hours later, we were glad we had gotten down the fuel for our bodies. The climb began in pitch darkness and was, without exaggeration, the hardest thing I’ve ever done. The mantra “Left, right. Left, right.” on repeat in my head. It’s safe to say that what got us to the top was the fact that our guide at some point started lying to us that it would only be “another 22 minutes from here”. After 3 hours, we finally reached the summit. With shaky legs and a big smiles on our faces we took in the breathtaking view of overlooking the endless Atlas mountains. But the cold hit fast. Without movement and nothing to block the wind, the temperature soon became unbearable and we started making our way back down.

In daylight, the path looked completely different and it made the achievement of the morning sink in even more. Back at basecamp, lunch had never felt so deserved. While the climb up burns your legs, the way down is brutal on your knees and we were very grateful for our hiking sticks. A tip for those with sensitive joints: if your knees start giving up, let your guide know early, so that they can intercept one of the mules coming from the base camp to carry you to Imlil.

To conclude: Climbing Mount Toubkal was, without a doubt, the toughest hike and the most memorable adventure I’ve ever done. With a decent fitness level, the hike pushed us to our limits. But the views, the experience and the pride of having conquered the highest peak in North Africa was worth step.

MY TIPS & RECOMMENDATIONS

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• We got a recommendation for Morocco Next & booked our private guide via Whatsapp: +212 690 026 006 and paid €220 per person: pick up & drop off at hostel in Marrakesh, lunch & dinner on 1st day, breakfast & lunch on 2nd day, night at the basecamp refuge (renting equipment + tip were another ~€23). If you request to go with a group, you can probably get a cheaper price but we really enjoyed our princess treatment.
  • Hostel Laksour was a great starting point in Marrakesh where we spent the night before and after our hike (€15 pp per night)
  • Taking hiking sticks was a game changer, especially for the way down, which is quite tough on the knees (if you or someone from your group realizes that the descent is simply not possible due to joint issues, alert your guide as soon as possible so that they can intercept any descending mules to carry you down).
  • Packing list (for beginning of December):
    • Passport (needed for the checkpoint you’ll reach after the first hour)
      • hiking boots + socks
      • hiking sticks (not a must but we were really glad we had them)
      • ski or outdoor jacket (warm enough for minus degrees)
      • thick gloves
      • warm head
      • scarf
      • cap
      • sunglasses
      • power bank
      • sleeping bag lining
      • head lamp
      • we layered up with: sports bra, long sleeve, ski jacket, leggings + a second pair of loose pants on top
      • something to sleep in
      • book / journal / playing cards for the night in the refuge